Explore the Diverse Cuisines of South India with CGH Earth’s Chefs

The cuisines of South India cover an abundance of dishes and accompaniments that highlight local produce, old colonial relationships and historic trading partnerships. Aromatic fresh and dried spices, fruits, herbs, fresh coconut, flavouring vegetables and delicate oils are carefully blended to create gravies and seasonings for a huge variety of vegetables, lentils and dal, meats, fish, seafood and poultry. Dishes are served together so that flavours and textures are perfectly matched along with rice-based noodles or pancakes –  or rice itself so beautifully flavoured, it becomes it’s own dish.

Menus in Western restaurants often focus on dishes from northern India. When these are served restaurant-style and heavy in oil and cream, it’s easy to think that all Indian food is overly rich and oily. But come with me as I take you on a culinary tour across south India and show you over 100 dishes that will change your mind. I will introduce you to the kind and generous chefs and cooks from CGH Earth properties who shared and demonstrated these recipes, patiently waiting for me to take thousands of photos and notes.

100+ Recipes

I have collated all the recipes in meal courses at the end of this article to make it easy for you to find dishes you’d like to try. But to truly share the food joy with you, I’ve also chosen to feature a dish that was particularly special, from many of these gifted people. Each recipe also showcases some of the interesting characteristics of the local cuisine in each district and will give you a snapshot of the diversity and patterns. And I really do think you will quickly understand that it’s not all about the food. It’s about the passionate people behind the food whom I hope you will delight in knowing too.

Do open the Facebook posts fully, in this and the linked articles, to get all the details and photos to help you understand the dishes. Do this by clicking on the time/date at the top of each Facebook post (just under the words Food and Travel Secrets). And if you are interested in having a first hand experience of all this delicious food, why not try my First Timer’s Top South India Itinerary, that makes it all so easy. My article is also perfect for armchair travellers keen to see the rest of the properties behind these culinary teams.

The Penguin Food Guide to India

I never start a trip without first consulting The Penguin Food Guide to India. Published in 2013, by Australian writer Charmaine O’Brien, it is still as helpful as ever in pointing me to the dishes, restaurants and recipes that reflect the history, culinary heritage and local produce of each area. This is how I found my first CGH Earth property in 2015 and have been back each year to discover more properties and more dishes.

CGH Earth Loves Food

CGH Earth’s unique properties take you from east to west across the southern Indian states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Each property is different and special in it’s own way and reflects the local history, culture and cuisine.  CGH Earth kitchens commit to preparing dishes from scratch, from local produce, often using herbs, fruits and vegetables grown in their gardens. I could see the high quality standards guiding all operations behind the scenes as I spent time in pristine kitchens using only the best ingredients and toured fridges and store rooms.

My favourite itinerary to introduce new comers to India is also a wonderful way to explore the cuisines of South India. Do read my First-Timers Top South India Itinerary to easily plan your perfect trip and have your first hand experience of all this delicious food. My article is also perfect for armchair travellers keen to see the rest of the properties behind these culinary teams.

Meet the Chefs and the Dishes

Tamil Nadu

Pondicherry – Palais de Mahe

Chef Kathir’s Parmesan Baked Pomfret

Pondicherry’s French colonial heritage has inspired wonderful dishes that combine both French and Indian ingredients to create lovely fusion dishes.

At Palais de Mahe in Pondicherry’s French Quarter, Chef Kathir’s Parmesan Baked Pomfret was one of the best dishes I’ve ever enjoyed. It was made particularly special as Kathir took me to the local market to select the fish for this dish.

Chef Mr Bala’s Prawn Mango Curry

While Pondicherry is in the state of Tamil Nadu, it has a special relationship with Kerala’s Mahe Coast because they both shared the same French colonial rulers. The Mahe Coast has inspired the menu at Palais de Mahe’s roof top restaurant Les Alizes and Chef Mr Bala invited me back into the kitchen to watch the Prawn Mango Curry being created for my dinner.

Read more about Palais de Mahe from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Pondicherry – Maison Perumal

Over in Pondicherry’s Tamil Quarter, kitchens are cooking another whole different cuisine.  At CGH Earth’s Maison Perumal Chef Couga Baba showed me a very traditional Tamil recipe that is made with 12 whole garlics and a thick tomato and onion gravy. It tasted wonderful! The other very special thing about this recipe is that Couga Baba also gave me the recipe to make the garam marsala (in grams)!

Chef Couga Baba’s Era Poondu Thokku (Traditional Tamil Prawn Curry in Tomato Onion Gravy with Whole Garlic)

Read more about Maison Perumal from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Kumbakonam – Mantra Koodam

Deep in the spiritual pilgrimage temple region of rural Tamil Nadu I was expecting to find mostly vegetarian dishes but in fact discovered many Tamil dishes including chicken or fish. Here I was introduced to Kalpasi, a species of lichen used as spice, curry leaves used as a paste and an amazing hibiscus raita using urad dal, a common Tamil spice. This is the place to try the famous ‘degree coffee’ a very special south indian filter coffee where the quality of the milk is measured with a lactometer.

A specialty of Mantra Koodam is the Maharaja Thali that showcases the South Indian way of enjoying a myriad of small dishes and accompaniments on a circular metal plate or a banana leaf. The dishes are carefully planned to cover salty, spicy, pungent, sweet, sour and bitter tastes and various textures.

Chef Murutharanan’s Tamil Nadu Curry Leaves Pepper Chicken

Read more about Mantra Koodam from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Chettinadu – Visalam

The Chettinadu  region of Tamil Nadu is famous for a different kind of fusion of cuisines. It was the wealthy, trading families from this area who ventured far from India to bring back new spices, ingredients and techniques from Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Vietnam and Burma. Chettiar dishes have a reputation for being spicier, though not necessarily hotter and using more of the south east asian spices like star anise.

Chef Latha’s Recipe for the Famous Chettinad Chicken

Chef Robert’s Chettinad Fish Curry

Read more about Visalam from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Kerala

It’s only a few hours from Tamil Nadu to the Kerala Hills, but suddenly the cooking oil changes to coconut oil and far more fresh coconut appears in recipes. CGH Earth chefs use a gorgeous bell metal traditional cooking vessel called an urili. Syrian Christian and Moplah Muslim cuisines are popular and this means that beef, lamb, mutton, goat, pork, quail, and duck all appear often on the menu beside seafood, fish and chicken along with hotty spiced drinking food, famously in Kerala’s Toddy Bars. Toddy is the local fermented liquor made from coconut palms and it’s deliciously effervescent when fresh, sweetish and fruity.

Spice Village, in the centre of the pepper and cardamom growing area, not only highlights how spices are grown and used in dishes, but they are also committed to an local, sustainable focus throughout their menu and property. In fact Spice Village has created a range of delicious recipes for their 50 Mile Diet Restaurant where all ingredients are sourced within a 50 mile radius. With this genuine earth to plate philosophy they also make innovative use of the many jackfruit growing on the property in jackfruit season. Eating here is a real treat.

Thekkady – Spice Village

Executive Chef Jerry Mathews Braised Pepper Chicken with Rosemary Makhani (Braised chicken in fresh pepper, served with rosemary flavoured Makhani Sauce)

Varikka Chakka Pradaman (Jackfruit dessert)

Read more about Spice Village from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Kumarakon – Coconut Lagoon

Coconut Lagoon, built on reclaimed land from Vembanad Lake prides itself on it’s dishes festuring freshwater fish and seafood. Surrounded by waterways, this makes perfect sense as does the strong influence of the Syrian Christian cuisines much loved in Central Kerala.

Chef Naveen’s Prawn and Mango Curry

Read more about Coconut Lagoon from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Vembanad Lake – Spice Coast Cruises

On board an authentic traditional kettuvalam houseboat, the food is just what you would expect to find home-cooked by a fisherman’s family. Freshwater fish and seafood is accomanied by dals and vegetable dishes that make use of local produce, prepared simply in the on board kitchen. It’s the perfect time to get some down to earth home cooking tips.

Kochimon’s Jumbo Prawns

Read more about Spice Coast Cruises from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Mararikulam – Marari Beach

Marari Beach on Kerala’s Arabain Sea coast has much to boast about. Not only do they have access to great saltwater fish and seafood, they have a wonderful farm garden that supplies the menu and showcases the wide variety of herbs, bananas and eggplants local to the area. Here you can even have your own special garden to plate experience in the Farm Garden Kitchen. Marari Beach has an impressive team with great expertise and a wonderful facility. Not only do they make almost everything from scratch, they use whatever is growing on site to produce delicious dishes using the local seafood and a range of meats and poultry for Syrian Christian dishes.

Marari Beach also has a strong Ayurveda centre and so dishes here are also influenced by a commitment to health benefits. Kerala’s Toddy Bar cuisine also has inspired some very impressive dishes like Saiju’s Toddy Chicken Curry, fiery fish curries and tapioca sides. The multifaceted menus supplying the adundant buffets at each meal are a highlight of the day.

Executive Chef Saiju’s -Toddy Chicken Curry

Chef Sreeja’s Hibiscus Payasam

Sous Chef Rinto’s Chemmeen (Prawn) Peera

Chef Alex’s Unnakkaya

Chef Biju’s Poovarasu (leaf) Elayada (with stuffing)

Chef Alby’s Kanji Monsoon Month Breakfast Porridge

Sephanya was the most impressive at serving South Indian filter coffee of everyone at CGH Earth. She really takes the prize!

Read more about Marari Beach from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Fort Kochi – Eighth Bastion

Like Pondicherry on the far eastern coast of South India, Fort Kochi on the far western coast has a rich colonial heritage. Traders and rulers from Europe came to build wealth and this attracted workers and business families from around the globe, creating a melting pot of cultures and cuisines. And like Pondicherry, Fort Kochi does fusion cuisine beautifully too.

The East Indies Restaurant at Eighth Bastion has taken a Dutch colonial themed approach to their dishes. The menu has been thoughtfully constructed with dishes sourced from countries where the Dutch travelled and traded. Here you find a delicious use of peanut and sambal or cognac and cream to create innovative dishes with the local seafood and old Dutch favourites.

Chef Shinto’s Prawn and Mango in Banana Leaf

Read more about Visalam from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Fort Kochi – Brunton Boatyard

Brunton Boatyard has taken the challenge of collating Fort Kochi’s melting pot of cuisines for the History Restaurant menu. From Portuguese seafood stew to a whole marinated fish from a local Jewish family. A stuffed chicken dish in cashew sauce from skilled Afghani riders features alongside the subtly spiced roast chicken created for the British officials they served. The menu reads as a historical culinary record and is delight in itself.

Sous Chef Sebastian’s First Class Railway Mutton Curry

However, Brunton not only captures Fort Kochi’s heritage through food, it has also inspired some brilliant cocktail creations.

Brunton Boatyard’s Van Rheede Cocktail

Read more about Brunton Boatyard from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Fort Kochi – David Hall Art Gallery and Cafe

Fort Kochi is not only immensely popular with foreign tourists, locals love to travel across the bay from Ernakulum for lunch on the weekend. And one of their favourites is the David Hall Art Gallery and Cafe. Benedict does wonderful Kerala style pizzas amongst a menu of light modern fusion dishes including a great seafood pasta.

Chef Benedict’s David Hall Seafood Spagetti

Read more about David Hall Gallery and Cafe from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Ernakulam – Chittoor Kottaram

The cuisine at CGH Earth’s very own palace is very special. Not only does it reflect a local Kerala style fit for royalty, Chittoor Kottaram’s partnership with Lady Helen Hamlyn means that the menu also has a Lady Hamlyn touch that makes it unique. At Chittoor, Sarjitha is cooking for only a few royal guests and her home cooking style reflects authentic the flavours found in local kitchens. She is a truly fabulous cook!

Sarjitha’s Watermelon and Pomegranate Salad

Read more about Chittoor Koodram from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

Ernakulam – Casino Hotel

Roshini from CGH Earth’s Office at Casino Hotel requested a recipe specially chosen by Chef Asif Ali, for my collection. It’s one of his signature recipes and a favorite among guests. In this recipe, Chef Ali has captured some of northern Kerala’s Moplah (Muslim) cuisine that is famous for its biriyanis and kebabs.

Chef Asif Ali’s Murg Jaituni Kebab

Read more about Casino Hotel from CGH Earth.

Wayanad – Wayanad Wild

Wayanad Wild in the rainforest of the Western Ghats uses local foods and produce, like Bamboo Rice, to create traditional regional dishes. But the menu is also a testimony to the South Indian love of fish and seafood no matter where you are in southern India.

Chef Vishnu’s Malabar Fish Curry

Read more about Wayanad Wild from Food and Travel Secrets and from CGH Earth.

100 CGH Earth South Indian Recipes

Here you will find over 100 recipes from CGH Earth cooks and chefs across Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Many can be prepared with different vegeatables or meats. Most are naturally gluten and dairy free (not of course the pasta or yogurt dishes). Vegans and Vegetarians will find much to love and you’ll be wowed by the diversity and abundance of fish and seafood recipes.

While some recipes will be similar and may even have the same name, they will be made with their own local style. As Brunton Boatyard’s Chef Amal told me so well…in Kerala every district will prepare the same dish differently and each will have a different taste.

Cocktails

The Van Rheede Cocktail (Brunton Boatyard)

Iced Royalty Cocktail (Brunton Boatyard)

Passionfruit Delight (Brunton Boatyard)

Soups

Green Papaya and Brahmi Soup (Marari Beach)

Snacks

Poovarasu (leaf) Elayada (with stuffing) (Marari Beach)

Parippu (Dal) Vada  (Marari Beach)

Panikoorkka (Indian Borage) Bhaji (Battered and Deep fried)  (Marari Beach)

Pazham Pori (Banana Fritter) (Marari Beach)

Salads

Charllas Onion Salad (Eighth Bastion)

Papaya and Peanut Salad (Eighth Bastion)

Watermelon, Ginger, Pomegranate and Feta Salad (Eighth Bastion)

Vegetable Dishes (Vegetarian)

Chakka Puzhukkum (Green Jackfruit with Crushed Coconut) (Spice Village)

Peppery Koon Vendakka (Lady Fingers (Okra) and Mushrooms highly flavoured with pepper (Spice Village)

Beetroot Mezhukuvarathy (Coconut Lagoon)

Snake Gourd (Padavalanga) Thoran (Coconut Lagoon)

Peechinga Thakkali Curry (using Ridge Gourd) (Coconut Lagoon)

Pumpkin Erussery (Coconut Lagoon)

Avial (Coconut Lagoon)

Carrot Thoran (Coconut Lagoon)

Masala Potato (Spice Coast Cruises)

Ladies Finger  (Okra) Curry (Spice Coast Cruises)

Aubergine (Eggplant) Fry (Spice Coast Cruises)

Bitter Gourd Fry (Spice Coast Cruises)

Cucumber Curry (Spice Coast Cruises)

Kappa Kuzha (Tapioca) (Marari Beach)

Snake Gourd Thoran (Marari Beach)

Auberigine (Eggplant) Mezhukkuvarathy (Marari Beach)

Longbean Mezhukkulpratti (Wayanad Wild, Kerala)

Beans Thoran (Brunton Boatyard)

Yogurt- Based Dishes and Sides – (Vegetarian)

Hibiscus Flower Raita (Mantra Koodam, Tamil Nadu)

Kumbalanga Moru Kachiyathu (White pumpkin cooked with coconut paste and yogurt) (Coconut Lagoon)

Raw Banana Kalan (Marari Beach)

Mango Pachadi (Marari Beach)

Pumpkin Pachadi (Spice Coast Cruises)

Tomato Pachadi (Spice Coast Cruises)

Beetroot Pachadi (Spice Coast Cruises)

Pullissery (Brunton Boatyard)

Rice, Noodles, Breads, Pancakes

Iddyappam (Marari Beach)

Kallappam (Eighth Bastion)

Nasi Goreng (Eighth Bastion)

Dahls

Yellow Moong Dal Curry (Spice Coast Cruises)

Kadala Curry (Spice Coast Cruises)

Sambar Dal (Spice Coast Cruises)

Fish and Seafood Dishes

Parmesan Baked Pomfret (Palais de Mahe, Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu)

Rawa Fried Ladyfish (Palais de Mahe, Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu)

Prawn Mango Curry (Palais de Mahe, Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu)

Meen (Fish) Pollichuttu (Palais de Mahe, Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu)

Meen Pundu Kulumbo (Fish Curry with Whole Garlic) (Palais de Mahe, Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu)

Era Poondu Thokku (Prawns cooked in semi tomato gravy with Whole Garlics) (Maison Perumal, Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu)

Traditional Chettinadu Prawns (Eral Therikal) (Visalam, Tamil Nadu)

Chettinad Fish Curry (Visalam, Tamil Nadu)

Meen Vattichathum Spicy Kerala Fish Curry (Spice Village)

Chemeen Varaval (Pan Grilled Angle Prawns in Kerala Marsala) (Spice Village)

Prawn Moilee (Coconut Lagoon)

Prawn and Mango Curry (Coconut Lagoon)

Kerala Fish Curry (Coconut Lagoon)

Jumbo Prawns (Spice Coast Cruises)

Mackeral Masala Fry (Spice Coast Cruises)

Chemmeen (Prawn) Peera (Marari Beach)

Chala Vattichathu (Sardines) (Marari Beach)

Seafood Pothichoru (a parcel lunch wrapped and grilled in a banana leaf for lunch away from home) (Marari Beach)

Meen (Fish) Pollichathu (Marari Beach)

Prawn and Mango Curry (Marari Beach)

Vipen Crab Cake (Eighth Bastion)

Tuna Ikan (Eighth Bastion)

Shrimp Sausage (Eighth Bastion)

Prawn and Mango in Banana Leaf (Eighth Bastion)

Meen (Fish) Moilee Pollichathu (Eighth Bastion)

Balinese Fish (Eighth Bastion)

Stuffed Calamari (Eighth Bastion)

Caleirada Seafood Stew (Brunton Boatyard)

Squid and Coconut (Brunton Boatyard)

Masala Clams (Brunton Boatyard)

Prawn Curry (Brunton Boatyard)

Meen Mappas (Brunton Boatyard)

Meen Moilee (Brunton Boatyard) also here

Snapper Fry (Chittoor Koodram)

David Hall Seafood Spagetti (David Hall Art Gallery and Cafe)

David Hall Fish and Chips (David Hall Art Gallery and Cafe)

Malabar Fish Curry (Wayanad Wild, Kerala)

Beef, Mutton, Lamb and Goat Dishes

Beef Coconut Fry (Beef Ularthu)  (Marari Beach)

Slow Cooked Mutton Pasta  (Marari Beach)

First Class Railway Mutton Curry (Brunton Boatyard)

Chicken, Duck, Quail, Egg Dishes

MKozhi Varuvall (Chicken Roast) (Palais de Mahe, Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu)

Tamil Nadu Curry Leaves Pepper Chicken (Mantra Koodam, Tamil Nadu)

Chettinad Chicken (Visalam, Tamil Nadu)

Braised Pepper Chicken with Rosemary Makhani (Braised chicken in fresh pepper, served with rosemary flavoured Makhani Sauce) (Spice Village)

Jackfruit Chicken Biriyani (Spice Village)

Toddy Chicken Curry (Marari Beach)

Kada Nirachathu (Stuffed Quail)(Marari Beach)

Duck Mappas (Marari Beach)

Kerala Egg Curry (Marari Beach)

Murg Jaituni Kebab (Casino Hotel, Kerala)

Chicken Mappas (Brunton Boatyard)

Syrian Christian Chicken and Vegetable Stew (Brunton Boatyard)

Desserts

Varikka Chakka Pradaman (Jackfruit dessert) (Spice Village)

Honey Baked Yogurt and Jackfruit Varatti (Spice Village)

Raggi Kinnathappam (Steamed finger millet cake with coconut Jaggery sauce) (Spice Village)

Hibiscus Payasam (Marari Beach)

Vattayappam (Marari Beach)

Unnakkaya (Marari Beach)

Kozhukatta (Marari Beach)

Watermelon and Pomegranate Salad (Chittoor Koodram)

Unnakaya Dessert (Eighth Bastion)

Pickles

Papaya Pickle (Marari Beach)

Cauliflower Pickle (Marari Beach)

Breakfast Dishes

Kanji Monsoon Month Breakfast Porridge (Marari Beach)