Shimla started life as Simla, a British hill station high on a ridge in the state of Himachal Pradesh in the early 1800’s. In the heat of the Indian Summer, the colonial governors would move to the cool of Shimla. For half of the year, one-fifth of the world’s population was ruled from there.
Despite its huge popularity with local tourists, Shimla still retains its British colonial look and feel.
The best time to visit is April, May. In June-July it can be rainy. But we were lucky even in July as the temperatures were in the twenties and the rain just occasional drizzle. Having said that, there was a haze over the valley for much of the time and even the low season was fairly busy.
Where to stay is the question. It’s a hilly place with a car-free walking mall so it’s good to stay quite close to the restaurants and sites. While there are some lovely heritage spots, accommodation is relatively expensive. Lonely Planet has it right when it steers people towards Sunnymead Bed and Breakfast and the Oberoi Cecil. Chapslee Hotel is an exceptional place to experience but very expensive ($500+ AUD including breakfast ad dinner) and it’s possible to book for a meal or tea instead. You might choose the Cecil if you prefer a hotel style (and very nicely central) but for the best value, incredible food, gorgeous décor and great hospitality you can’t beat Sunnymead Bed and Breakfast. This is the most lovely home. A heritage cottage with a long history in the British era. While the bedrooms are great, it’s the shared common areas that that really wow! with carefully curated antiques, textiles and décor.
The very best Tara room ($190 AUD including breakfast) has a wonderful four poster bed and private balcony, but all rooms are good.
At Sunnymead, Madhavi has created an oasis of heritage and culinary hospitality at Sunnymead. It is a treat just to spend time at Sunnymead. Madhavi is also a wonderful host with a great passion for sharing and preserving the heritage of Shimla. She is great for tips and information to help make the best use of time in Shimla. Madhavi is also a person who quickly feels like an old friend whom you can ask anything about life in India.
The food we enjoyed was some of the best for our whole trip. Dinner at Sunnymead ($40 AUD per person) is also an opportunity to try the regional dishes of the area because so much restaurant food has come from other areas. The food is wonderful, abundant and generous. My favourite dishes at the dinner we enjoyed were shani kebab (from minced mutton), okra raita and pappads and the beetroot and spinach and peanut salad. It was so good to have home-cooked food full of fresh vegetables and salad after so much restaurant food. I also really enjoyed watching Madhu make the Himachali siddhu, a large steamed yeast bun which she filled with a paste of white urad dal, poppy seeds, fresh green coriander, ginger, green chilli and salt. These were delicious served with ghee. I had read about these so I was eager to try them. I was also touched by the trouble that Deepak went to making the Patorh as he spread the colcasia leaves with a paste made from chickpea flour, garlic, green chilli, ginger and dried pomegranate seeds. He then rolled them and steamed the roll before slicing and shallow frying the slices which we served with chutneys. It really is a feast, making it very easy to overeat. It is hard to do justice to it all and some people may prefer a smaller meal which Madhavi is also happy to provide at a lower cost to guests.
Madhavi is joined by Madhu and Deepak in the kitchen. Watching the dishes being prepared for our meal was immensely interesting as many of the recipes are methods were completely new to me.
If you book through Tripzuki you also can enjoy the most wonderful home-baked cake and fresh cream when you arrive.
The continental breakfast is amazing and has three incredible courses with great French Press coffee. You can also choose a traditional Indian breakfast if you would prefer.
The top sites and pedestrian mall are all walkable from Sunnymead, but it is a hilly place and some might struggle with the challenge.
It is popular and cheap to get the heritage Toy Train to Shimla from Kalka (about $10 per person). But it’s good to know that it is a winding trip with no air-con on some trains and can be hot. It also takes a least five hours. The car trip is also very scenic, more comfortable and quicker. Worth considering, especially if you are prone to travel sickness.
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