Amritsar in Punjab State India is home to the Golden Temple, the most visited place in the world! So it is surprising to find that in fact Amritsar is a smaller, quieter city where foreign tourists are welcomed warmly with great friendliness and curiosity.
Since the Golden Temple is such an important spiritual centre, Amritsar is an excellent place to immerse yourself in both Punjabi and Sikh culture. The Sikh religion has a fascinating history, as does Punjab which was so sadly torn apart in the 1947 Partition.
The most wildy colourful turbans are sported with great pride and worn by both men and women.
Punjabi suits are equally as colourful and creative and before long you will find yourself admiring so many that you will just have to get one made for yourself. Which is no problem at all and only takes two hours with the best tailoring skills I’ve come across. Fits perfectly first try!
That’s of course if you don’t get distracted by the phukari (traditional Punjabi embroidery) shawls (dupattas) table runners and saris, or the Punjabi shoes (juttis).
Then there are the special (thankfully bendable and transportable) papads to buy to take home. And this is just the first stop on our itinerary! But the shopping in the bazaars of the old city is just so so good it’s well worth the luggage space.
And then there is the amazing Amritsar street food. I’m told people come to Amritsar just to eat the special foods! I can see why! Treat yourself to a food tour one evening and you will have a wonderful time!
But one more Amritsar ‘must do’ is the Wagah Border Cermeony. It takes about 4 hours to get there, watch the preparations and ceremony and to come back, but it’s well worth it. It’s an amazing spectacle and it happens every day!!
Try to get a copy of the special Punjab Lonely Planet guide. Let Prerna know at Windsong that you’d like one before you arrive to give her time to get one. It’s great for planning travel in Punjab.
So here are my best tips for four nights in Amritsar.
1. Fly into Amritsar if you’re coming from overseas.
If you’re flying from Delhi try Vistara, owned by Singapore Airlines. You can book easily on-line. (Download their app to watch a movie in the air).
2. Check-in to Windsong Bed and Breakfast for two nights. A stay at Windsong is a great way to get orientated to Amritsar and Punjab because Prerna is so knowledgable and helpful. https://www.tripadvisor.in/Hotel_Review-g303884-d12851724-Reviews-Windsong-Amritsar_Amritsar_District_Punjab.html
…..and eat dinner at Windsong that night.
Next morning take a walk around the neighbourhood…..
……. before enjoying breakfast on the terrace.
Take a cooking workshop with Ritika later that morning and enjoy what you cooked for lunch.
That night ask Prerna to take you on her Amritsar food tour.
3. Day 3 check in to the Ramada hotel in the Old City for two nights. Ask Vishwas at Luxury India Holidays for a great rate.
If you would like help finding a good driver or booking other accommodation, Luxury India Holidays can also help with the logistics of other trip planning. Just tell them what you’re thinking and where you’d like to stay but also consider their suggestions, as they have good ideas and can get good rates.
After checking in, turn right at the front of the hotel and head up to the Hall Gate. Before crossing the first road you will pass the Pagri Centre that is a good place to get an informal Pakistani suit, with good tailoring for about $60 AUD and a small electrical shop that sells good international adapters. Look for the paneer making shop just as you go to cross the street. Down that street are many shops selling all sorts of things if you need something. There’s a small supermarket, and fruit sellers once you are at Rambagh Gate along with another little supermarket selling UHT milk. But stick to the main Hall Bazaar Road and on the right side you will pass the wonderful shops selling turban materials in hundreds of colours. If you’re lucky you might get a demonstration.
Next you’ll come to the Book Lovers Retreat where you can stock up on Indian Authors in English. Look for Kushwant Singh’s Train to Pakistan a great novel set at the time of Partition. Cross the street and try the kulfa with rabri and falouda for 65INR at the Mahajan Refreshment House. Try a Phirni dessert here too 25INR. Next door you’ll find the temporary street food stall selling aloo tikki (stuffed potato cakes with tamarind gravy). Everyone knows this spot so ask if you can’t find it. Stay on this left side of the Hall Bazaar Road to find the Airtel shop close to the Hall Gate where you can get an Indian SIM card if you provide your hotel details, address and phone number of a contact person. Head across Hall Bazaar Circle to Ranauk Juttis for the best juttis in town. They are the best quality and most comfortable. Although you might want to wait until you’ve done your main shopping on Day 4 if you want to match your shoes to your outfit.
If however, you’re not ready for shopping and just want lunch, head left at the front of the Ramada towards the Town Hall and go the Bharawan Da Dhaba or the next door Brothers Dhaba for an inexpensive lunch ($3-5 AUD). You may also have time to visit the Partition Museum in the Town Hall.
But make sure you’ve had time for a roof top swim and freshen up before heading off at 3pm with your half day booked driver to the Wagah Border Ceremony.
You’ll be back at the Ramada soon after 7pm and may want to head to dinner at Makhan Fish and Chicken Corner for there special Amritsari Fried Fish (get the Sohal) 400INR and about 260INR for a large beer. (Or stay close to home at Bharawan Da Dhaba). (A better choice than Kesar Dhaba, which is not as good.)
4. Day 4 Start the day with an early Ramada breakfast and then grab a rickshaw down to the town hall to meet Rajwinder just before 8am (or 9am December to February). Raj gives a great heritage tour for just 75INR ($1.50). It’s a service run everyday by Punjab Tourism. There’s also the same tour at 5pm (March-Nov) or 4pm (December to Feb) that will also give you more opportunity to taste street foods. Or ask Raj about other walks as you may choose to do another walk in the evening.
The tour finishes at the Golden Temple and it’s a good time to go inside as it is often less busy to line up to see the inside of the Golden Temple earlier in the day.
The shops start opening about 10am but many aren’t open until 11:30am. But ready to look (even window shop) for phulkari shawls, Punjabi suits, sarees, juttis and Pakistani suits. Tailoring is quick, inexpensive and the best I’ve seen. Even if you aren’t a shopper, exploring the old markets is fascinating. Then head back for a Ramada roof top swim.
That night before sunset head to the Golden Temple. It is magnificent at night and do enjoy a meal in the Langar (Community Dining Hall). Both the visit and the meal are free of charge and an awesome experience. The dining hall feeds 50,000 -100,000 people a day, and it’s a very quick process.
The Ramada Hotel is so close to everything, that it’s easy to slip into the Golden Temple a few times and head back and forth to the market to pick up shopping or tailoring.
If you have extra time, consider Gobindgarh Fort . If you can, head there before the museum closes at about 6pm/6:30pm and stay for the 3D movie (half hourly I think) then go for dinner before heading back for the English light and sound show at 9pm. We didn’t try the new Sadda Pind tourist attraction of Punjabi culture but it sounded like good value and good fun.
Other good things to know are, you need a skirt or pants that are well below your knees to visit the Golden Temple and it’s good to cover your shoulders too. You will also need a scarf to cover your head so buy one for 10INR on the way in if you need to. Also, you can’t take bags into the Wagah Border Crossing and it can be quite hot sitting in the sun for a couple of hours. People in Amritsar are genuine, so while you do still need to be careful with your belongings as always, people really do want to help you and chat to you without expecting something in return. WhatsApp is great for contacting drivers. If you find a driver you like, keep his details. We really liked Dev for half day or full day drives whose number is +91 8872782026. He’s a very thoughtful and caring driver. Pepe was very helpful for short trips in and out of the city from Windsong and his mobile is +91 7837232728.
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