Surprising Calcutta (Kolkata)!

Before I started my trip, I thought I had a good idea of what Calcutta would be like. But I seriously underestimated what I would enjoy most. Here in a nutshell are twelve reasons why I would recommend Kolkata for a great travel experience and why I just have to come back.

1. Calcutta is full of heritage architecture

Home to the East India Trading Company and then the British Government Capital for years, Calcutta streets really are full of retro buildings in all stages of condition, more so than any other Indian city I’ve seen. She must have been a most magnificent city in her time.

Don’t miss the historic BBD Bagh area and the Victoria Memorial but also make the most of being able to walk most places so you can truly appreciate the buildings.

2. Calcutta is richly multi-cultural

I hadn’t realised that settlers and colonists had such an influence on Calcutta, but so much of the Bengali cuisine, architecture and transportation has been introduced, like the the hand drawn rickshaws from China. Don’t miss Calcutta Photo Tour’s Cultural Kaleidoscope Tour for a fascinating look below the surface.

3. Calcutta is still full of iconic businesses that are a blast from the past

I was amazed to find so many businesses that have been going strong for decades.

Don’t miss the Oxford Bookstore, Flury’s for a coffee and cake from the cabinet (not the menu!), Hot Kati Roll, Kusum’s Rolls, Nahoum’s Bakery and Mocambo.

4. Calcutta has beautiful textiles

I learnt that the humid weather means people wear more cottons and linens, loose fitting pants and simpler designs. Fiona Caulfied has some excellent places in her Made in Kolkata book for textiles like the wonderful Byloom in Ballygunge and there are many stores around the Park Street area.

5. Calcutta does desserts so, so well

The Chhena (cheese curd) desserts and reduced sweetened yogurt (mishti doi and the mango aam doi) are wonderful). Do try Sandesh, Kadams, Rasogulla, Cham Cham, Rasmalai and many more. The date palm jaggery sweetened Nalen Guror Ice Cream is a must have too.

Don’t miss K.C. Das Sweet Shop.

Bengalis even like a pinch of sugar in there savoury dishes.

6. Calcutta does fish and seafood so well

Bengali cuisine uses mustard oil and mustard seeds in dishes along with poppy seeds. Two of my favourite dishes were Bhekti (Fish) Paturi and Chingri (Prawn) Malai Curry.

Don’t miss Oh! Calcutta…

6 Ballygunge Place….

and Bhojori Manna for fish and prawns (and desserts).

All are a short and easy Uber or Ambassador Taxi ride away.

7. Calcutta does Anglo-Indian cuisine so well

The most gorgeous spot for dinner is actually Mocambo which specialises in Anglo-Indian dishes from a 1950’s menu full of retro dishes that many Australians grew up with. The cute decor, old-fashioned silver service is enough reason to head there for dinner in itself but the dishes are also excellent!

Don’t miss trying the Anglo-Indian Dimmer Devil too (just like Scotch Eggs made with duck eggs and minced lamb served at 6 Ballygunge Place!)

8. Calcutta is full of interesting transportation

I’ve never seen so much manpowered transportation before, from hand drawn rickshaws to huge loads carried on the head. And then there are the trams, pushcarts and yellow Ambassador taxis.

9. Calcutta has great markets

The Mullick Ghat Flower Market is best in the mornings early, but does run all day. Head to the Howrah Bridge and look down.

New Market near the Oberoi Grand is also full of great shops for browsing and buying like A.R. Mullick’s habashery, Chamba Lama Tibetan jewellery (near Nahoum’s Bakery) as suggested by Made in Kolkata.

And for a wonderful trip to the wholesale fish and vegetable markets do book Calcutta Photo Tours‘ Mesmirizing Market Tour.

10. Calcutta has some lovely people who will invite you over for a meal

Traveling Spoon has several lovely hosts ready to share their cooking passions with you in their kitchens and over a meal. We made some lovely new friends and this was a highlight of our trip.

11. Calcutta has some great walking, photo tours

Calcutta can be overwhelming, there’s so much to see and do. Manjit’s Calcutta Photo Tours have an excellent Mesmirizing Markets and Cultural Kaleidoscope that were some of the best things we did.

12. Calcutta has the Oberoi Grand

Calcutta can be full on but the Oberoi Grand is like a haven in the centre of town.

The team is absolutely fantastic and luxury is at every turn is wonderful. There’s truly nowhere else in town like it for heritage, convenience, luxury and thoughtful attention.

Best of Calcutta

Where to Stay

The Oberoi Grand Hotel

Where to Eat

Use Zomato to get the menu and directions.

Mocambo (licensed, well priced mains about $9, great ambience, silver service, walking distance from the Oberoi, but not Bengali cuisine)

Oh! Calcutta (licensed, higher priced mains about $12, silver service, nice ambience, short Uber distance from the Oberoi, Bengali cuisine)

6 Ballygunge Place (not licensed, well priced mains about $9, good ambience, silver service, medium Uber distance from the Oberoi, Bengali cuisine)

Bhojori Manna (not licensed, well priced mains about $9, average ambience, medium Uber distance from the Oberoi, Bengali cuisine)

K.C.Das (amazing iconic sweets shop and cafe)

Where to Shop

Byloom for textiles (in Ballygunge)

Chamba Lama for Tibetan jewellery (New Market)

What to Do

Calcutta Photo Tours

Traveling Spoon Local Food Experiences

Mullick Ghat Flower Market

See the sights

Calcutta might be a bit too much for a first time trip to India, but once you’ve been down the usual tourist paths (Rajasthan and Kerala) it’s well worth a visit for something a little different.